time lapse questions

[shralp]

Hi all, I'm going to be shooting alot of time lapse shots this winter on my Nizo Professional as part of the documentary I'm shooting and I'd like some input on the best way to go about this. One thing I would like to try is a time lapse shot at night to show motion tracking of the stars. Is this even possible with K-40? I looks like I'll need really long exposures of each frame and I'm assuming that the "autom. B" function on my camera is the way to accomplish this. According to the manual, the "autom. B" setting, along with pulling the shutter angle adjustment wide open, will do this. It says, "the special automatic exposure control will determine the (time lapse) frame speed. It goes without saying that the automatic extended exposure control can only be used to advantage in adverse lighting conditions" I'd say that trying to shoot star tracks throught the night sky would pretty much qualify as "adverse". I can also pull the shutter angle wide open and go as slow as 1 frame per minute with a 1 minute exposure time on each frame. I'm just not sure if this is even enough. If I do use this "automatic time lapse mode" function how the heck will the camera figure out how long to expose each frame if its basically sitting out in the dark? Anyone have a Nizo that they have done time lapses with that can provide any answers? I'm also going to do alot of daytime time lapses and probably go with about 1 frame every 6 sec. for atmospheric stuff, i.e.- clouds moving over mountain peaks, sunsets, etc.
Thanks for any info!

[Alex]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="verdana, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="verdana, sans-serif">Originally posted by shralp:
If I do use this "automatic time lapse mode" function how the heck will the camera figure out how long to expose each frame if its basically sitting out in the dark? Anyone have a Nizo that they have done time lapses with that can provide any answers? </font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Start with one minute time exposures at F. 2.0.

Then use different stocks. I think the Vision 200T may be your wisest choice, but also try Ektachrome and Kodachrome, whether your shot is telephoto or wide, the frame you choose will affect your result.

The actual f-stop is very confusing to figure out. If the moon is in your shot, the moon is actually quite bright, and will instantly overexpose when shooting time-exposure. But then again little pin points of light from distant stars will need much more time to register an exposure on your film.

I have seen time-lapse of the night sky done before, on either 16mm or 35mm. I think the film Koyaanisqatsi (shot on 35mm) had the exact shots you want to create. http://www.dvdtalk.com/dvdsavant/s582reggio.html
However, I don't know how long the intervals were that they used. I think the filmmaker may have traveled nearer to the North Pole for those star shots, I seem to recall there being snow on the ground (I don't know how close actually, perhaps it was Canada) so that way you can actually see the stars "circling" the earth because the orbit the stars follow is "tighter".

Definitely rent either Koyaanisqatsi or Powaqqatsi. Either film will can open your eyes to the endless possibilites that film offers.

Coming soon, the third film in this series! Naqoykatsi

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ May 07, 2003 10:18 PM: Message edited by: Forum-405 ]</font>

[Greg Crawford]

I agree with running a test.

Hear is a cheep way to get in the ballpark. Run a roll of 200 or 400 speed color neg film through your still camera. Try settting from f2 or 2.8 from 1/10 up to a couple of minutes.

Take notes keep track of each individual exposure on each any every frame. You don't even have to make prints examine the neg with a loop.

The problem is the longer the exposure. the more the earth will have moved...causing your star (s) to arc. The shorter the exposure the more chance of underexposure, as you probably know.

[Alex]

The arc can look cool.

[Alex]

By the way, one unexpected bonus/minus will be cloud cover.

You discover the most gorgeous cloud patterns emerge at night that you didn't know existed. They may also cover the stars. You may end up with blurred fast moving clouds and the stars poking through.

[cameraguy]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor=""><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">"If I do use this "automatic time lapse mode" function how the heck will the camera figure out how long to expose each frame if its basically sitting out in the dark? Anyone have a Nizo that they have done time lapses with that can provide any answers?"</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

The Nizo Professional along with the 481, 561 and 801 (macro versions too) have a two light meters in the camera. One is the regular TTL and is for regular light filming. The other is above the lens and it used with the Auto B function in order to set the correct exposure for time exposure shots.

For regular time lapse you don't need the Auto B just use the time lapse dial to select the single frame rate you want (6 fps to 1 minute). If you want to time lapse clouds so that upon projection the are zipping by during the day this is what you want to use.

Auto B is time exopsure combined with time lapse. The shutter is locked open (manually by you) so you are always exposing a frame (time exposures) and this is only needed at very lowlight levels. The night meter uses the time lapse ciruit (6 fps to 1 minute) to select the exposure time. So the camera can expose one frame for up to one minute automatically. For a test lock the shutter open, put the camera on Auto B and start pointing the camera a different lowlight levels and you'll hear the time lapse speed change as light changes.

I briefly had a 561 macro and this auto B function does work well. If its pitch dark though don't expect a miracle. What you could do in insanely dark conditions is just lock the shutter open, set the camera on regular single frame and that frame will expose until you manually click off another frame (technically you could expose one frame forever).

[Alex]

Apparently this past Tuesday we had what was supposed to be the most spectacular display of meteors and meteorites until the year 2099?

Anyone shoot it?

Hey Cameraguy, is that why the power's been out in your area, to enhance the meteorites by turning off all the lights?

[cameraguy]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor=""><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Alex:

Hey Cameraguy, is that why the power's been out in your area, to enhance the meteorites by turning off all the lights?</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

If thats the reason Mother Nature KO'd the power then she is mean cause I heard it was mostly cloudy that morning.

The real reason is below

quicktime movie 3.1mb

[Alex]

Wow, that was pretty spectacular. Those trees look so depressed!

By the way, on the Nizo's, do the 00 series cameras have the two light sensors, or only the 01's?